The Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics   By: Franklin Beech

by

FRANKLIN BEECH Practical Colourist and Chemist; Author of "The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics," Etc,

With Thirty Three Illustrations

London Scott, Greenwood & Son 8 Broadway, Ludgate Hill, E.C.

Canada: The Copp Clark Co., Ltd., Toronto United States: D. Van Nostrand Co., New York 1902 [All rights remain with Scott, Greenwood & Son.]

PREFACE. (p. iii)

In this little book the author has endeavoured to supply the dyer of woollen fabrics with a conveniently arranged handbook dealing with the various branches of the wool dyeing industry, and trusts that it will be found to meet the want which undoubtedly exists for such a book.

The text on which the book is based is expressed in the title "The Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics," and in enlarging upon it the author has endeavoured to describe clearly and in some detail the various processes and operations generally, pointing out the principles involved and illustrating these by numerous recipes, showing the applications of a great variety of dyes in the production of the one thousand and one tints and shades the wool dyer is called upon to produce on the fabrics with which he is working. In pursuance of this plan nothing is said of the composition and properties of the various dyes, mordants, chemicals, etc., which are used. This is information every wool dyer should possess, but the author believes it is better dealt with in books devoted to Chemistry proper.

May, 1902.

CONTENTS. (p. v)

CHAPTER I. Page THE WOOL FIBRE Structure, Composition and Properties...................... 1

CHAPTER II.

PROCESSES PREPARATORY TO DYEING Scouring and Bleaching of Wool............................ 15

CHAPTER III.

DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS Loose Wool Dyeing, Yarn Dyeing and Piece Dyeing Machinery................................................. 40

CHAPTER IV.

THE PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF WOOL DYEING Properties of Wool Methods of Wool Dyeing Groups of Dyes Dyeing with the Direct Dyes Dyeing with Basic Dyes Dyeing with Acid Dyes Dyeing with Mordant Dyes Level Dyeing Blacks on Wool Reds on Wool Mordanting of Wool Orange Shades on Wool Yellow Shades on Wool Green Shades on Wool Blue Shades on Wool Violet Shades on Wool Brown Shades on Wool Mode Colours on Wool.................... 59

CHAPTER V.

DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS............... 168

CHAPTER VI.

DYEING OF GLORIA........................................... 188

CHAPTER VII. (p. vi)

OPERATIONS FOLLOWING DYEING Washing Soaping Drying................................. 197

CHAPTER VIII.

EXPERIMENTAL DYEING AND COMPARATIVE DYE TESTING............ 211

CHAPTER IX.

TESTING OF THE COLOUR OF DYED FABRICS...................... 218

INDEX...................................................... 225

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. (p. vii)

Fig. Page

1. Microscopical Sketch of Wool Fibre....................... 2

2. Kempy Wool Fibres........................................ 3

3. Sectional View of Wool Fibre............................. 4

4. Wool Fibres Showing Action of Alkalies.................. 10

5. Wool Fibres Showing Action of Acids..................... 11

6. Wool Washing Machine.................................... 20

7. Wool Cloth Washing Machine.............................. 28

8. Woollen Cloth Washing Machine........................... 29

9. Sulphur Bleach House.................................... 29

10. Dyeing Tubs and Vat..................................... 41

11. Section of Dye Vat...................................... 42