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The Land of the Black Mountain The Adventures of Two Englishmen in Montenegro   By:

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THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN

THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN IN MONTENEGRO

BY

REGINALD WYON AND GERALD PRANCE

WITH FIFTY ONE ILLUSTRATIONS

"SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"

CHAUCER

NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE

METHUEN & CO. 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. LONDON

First Published March 1903 New and Cheaper Issue 1905

[Illustration: H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO]

DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION

TO

H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I

Montenegro's geographical position Character of the people Their honesty, patriotism, and love of arms Likeness to the Homeric Greeks The women Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of privacy, police Goodness of the Prince The national costume Religion Hatred of Austria Russia's friendship

CHAPTER II

History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to the present Prince Fruits of the last campaign Education The military system Legal administration Crime Government The educated classes

CHAPTER III

The journey to Montenegro Arrival in Cattaro Beauty of the Bocche, and the drive to the frontier First impressions of Montenegro Njegusi The national troubadours Arrival in Cetinje

CHAPTER IV

Cetinje and its sights Prince Nicolas The Archbishop The barracks The princes A visit to the prison and its system Our departure for Podgorica

CHAPTER V

The view from Bella Vista New scenery Promiscuous shooting The market in Rijeka The shepherds Their flocks Wayside hospitality The plain of the Zeta The Moraca The Vizier bridge Old war marks First and last impressions of Podgorica

CHAPTER VI

Podgorica Its central position Our headquarters Easter in Montenegro Our experience of it We view the town The prison and its inmates Christian and Mahometan friction The modern town The market and the armed buyers The Black Earth Easter customs Montenegrin methods of doing business

CHAPTER VII

Medun Voivoda Marko His life and business His part in Montenegrin history Our ride to Medun His widow We visit his grave The Death Dirge Montenegrin customs at death Target practice Our critics The hermit of Daibabe We visit Spuz A typical country inn and a meal The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare Dioclea

CHAPTER VIII

Achmet Uiko tells his story Sokol Baco, ex Albanian chief Shooting on the Lake of Scutari Our journey thither Our frustrated nap Arrival at the chapel The island of Vranjina The priest Fishing and fishermen Our visitors We return to Podgorica

CHAPTER IX

Stephan our servant Virpazar The drive over the Sutormann Pass Antivari and Prstan The beauty of the bay We are delayed by contrary winds We are rowed to Dulcigno We make the acquaintance of Marko Ivankovic A story concerning him We shoot together An episode on a lake Vaccination The Turkish inhabitants

CHAPTER X

We ride to Scutari The Albanian Customs officials We suffer much from Turkish saddles Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the Customs "Buon arrivato" Scutari and its religious troubles The town and bazaar A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No We return to Rijeka by steamer The beauties of the trip Wrong change The prodigal son's return, when the fatted calf is not killed

CHAPTER XI

Preparations for our tour in the Brda We start Where it is not good to be giddy A trying ride Our inn Nocturnal episodes The journey continued Pleasant surroundings The Montenegrin quart d'heure Arrival in Kolasin We meet the Governor Visiting The Band of Good Hope The Crown Prince's birthday We are ashamed

CHAPTER XII

Montenegro's oldest building The ride to the Moraca Monastery A perilous bridge and ascent The Abbot's tale We inspect the Monastery The health of the King is drunk The relative merits of Boers and Montenegrins The Abbot makes us presents We visit a peasant's house and a Homeric feast A feu de joie Departure from Kolasin We are mistaken for doctors again Raskrsnica

CHAPTER XIII

A typical mountain hut Costume of the north eastern borderers Supper and a song We go out hunting, and cause excitement The Feast of Honour We ride to Andrijevica Andrijevica and our inn The Voivoda We go to church Turkish visitors Alarums

CHAPTER XIV

The Voivoda's invitation Concerning an episode on our ride to Velika The fugitive from a blood feud and his story We arrive at Velika The men of Velika The ménu Border jurisdiction A shooting match The Kom Pleasant evenings A young philosopher Sunset

CHAPTER XV

We leave Andrijevica Our additional escort The arrival at our camping place In an enemy's country The story of one Gjolic Our slumbers are disturbed Sunrise on the Alps We disappoint our escort "Albanian or Montenegrin?" A reconnaissance The Forest of Vucipotok The forbidden land narrow escape We arrive at Rikavac Rain damps our ardour Nocturnal visitors

CHAPTER XVI

More memorial stones We get wet again Unwilling hosts A fall The Franciscan of Zatrijebac The ravine of the Zem Methods of settling tribal differences A change of diet and more pleasant evenings A fatalist Sunday morning

CHAPTER XVII

A modern hero, and our sojourn under his roof Keco's story The laws of vendetta and their incongruity We return to Podgorica The Montenegrin telephone An elopement causes excitement The Sultan's birthday The reverse of the picture A legal anomaly

CHAPTER XVIII

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