Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States   By: William Henry Holmes (1846-1933)

BY

WILLIAM HENRY HOLMES

CONTENTS

Page Introductory 9 Scope of the work 9 Definition of the art 10 Materials and processes 10 Sources of information 11 Products of the art 13 Wattle work 13 Basketry 15 Types of basketry 15 Baskets 15 Sieves and strainers 17 Cradles 18 Shields 18 Matting 18 Pliable fabrics 21 Development of spinning and weaving 21 Cloths 22 Nets 26 Feather work 27 Embroidery 28 Fossil fabrics 28 Modes of preservation 28 Fabrics from caves and shelters 29 Charred remains of fabrics from mounds 35 Fabrics preserved by contact with copper 36 Fabrics impressed on pottery 37

INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS

Page PLATE I. Products of the textile art: a , Openwork fish baskets of Virginia Indians; b , Manner of weaving: c , Basket strainer; d , Quiver of rushes; e , Mat of rushes 18

II. Mat of split cane 28

III. Mantle or skirt of light colored stuff 30

IV. Fringed skirt 32

V. Frayed bag and skeins of hemp fiber 34

VI. Charred cloth from mounds in Ohio 36

VII. Drawings of charred fabric from mounds 38

VIII. Copper celts with remnants of cloth 40

IX. Bits of fabric marked pottery, with clay casts of same 44

FIG. 1. Fish weir of the Virginia Indians 14

2. Use of mats in an Indian council 19

3. Use of mat in sleeping 20

4. Section of cliff showing position of grave shelter 31

5. Portion of mantle showing manner of weaving 32

6. Analysis of the weaving of fringed skirt 32

7. Former costumes of woman and girl in Louisiana 33

8. Border of bag 34

9. Sandal or moccasin from a Kentucky cave 35

10. Fine, closely woven cloth preserved by contact with copper beads 36

11. Small portion of rush matting preserved by contact with copper 37

12. Split cane matting from Petite Ause island, Louisiana 38

13. Fabric marked vase from a mound in North Carolina 39

14. Diagonal fabric, ancient pottery of Tennessee 39

15. Fabric from the ancient pottery of Alabama 40

16. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee 40

17. Twined fabric from ancient pottery, Tennessee 40

18. Twined fabric from ancient salt vessel, Illinois 41