Round About the Carpathians   By: Andrew F. Crosse

BY

ANDREW F. CROSSE

FELLOW OF THE CHEMICAL SOCIETY

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCLXXVIII

The Right of translation is reserved

MUIR AND PATERSON, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

Down the Danube from Buda Pest Amusements on board the steamer Basiash Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen Ladies of Oravicza Gipsy music Finding an old school fellow The czardas . 1

CHAPTER II.

Consequences of trying to buy a horse An expedition into Servia Fine scenery The peasants of New Moldova Szechenyi road Geology of the defile of Kasan Crossing the Danube Milanovacz Drive to Maidenpek Fearful storm in the mountains Miserable quarters for the night Extent of this storm The disastrous effects of the same storm at Buda Pest Great loss of life. 15

CHAPTER III.

Maidenpek Well to do condition of Servians Lady Mary Wortley Montague's journey through Servia Troubles in Bulgaria Communists at Negotin Copper mines Forest ride Robbers on the road Kucainia Belo breska Across the Danube Detention at customhouse Weisskirchen Sleeping Wallacks. 33

CHAPTER IV.

Variety of races in Hungary Wallacks or Roumains Statistics Savage outbreak of the Wallacks in former years Panslavic ideas Roumanians and their origin Priests of the Greek Church Destruction of forests Spirit of Communism Incendiary fires. 46

CHAPTER V.

Paraffine works in Oravicza Gold mine Coal mines at Auima Steirdorf Geology States Railway Company's mines Bribery 54

CHAPTER VI.

Mineral wealth of the Banat Wild ride to Dognacska Equipment for a riding tour An afternoon nap and its consequences Copper mines Self help Rare insects Moravicza Rare minerals Deutsch Bogsan Reschitza 58

CHAPTER VII.

Election at Oravicza Officialism Reforms Society Ride to Szaszka Fine views Drenkova Character of the Serbs Svenica Rough night walk through the forest 70

CHAPTER VIII.

Hospitable welcome at Uibanya Excursion to the Servian side of the Danube Ascent of the Stierberg Bivouac in the woods Magnificent views towards the Balkans Fourteen eagles disturbed Wallack dance 83

CHAPTER IX.

A hunting expedition proposed Drive from Uibanya to Orsova Oriental aspect of the market place Cserna Valley Hercules Bad, Mehadia Post office mistakes Drive to Karansebes Rough customers en route Lawlessness Fair at Karansebes Podolian cattle Ferocious dogs 90

CHAPTER X.

Post office at Karansebes Good headquarters for a sportsman Preparations for a week in the mountains The party starting for the hunt Adventures by the way Fine trees Game Hut in the forest Beauty of the scenery in the Southern Carpathians 104

CHAPTER XI.

Chamois and bear hunting First battue Luxurious dinner 5000 feet above the sea level Storm in the night Discomforts The bear's supper The eagle's breakfast Second and third day's shooting Baking a friend as a cure for fever Striking camp View into Roumania 118

CHAPTER XII.

Back at Mehadia Troubles about a carriage An unexpected night on the road Return to Karansebes On horseback through the Iron Gate Pass Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia Roman remains Beauty of the Hatszeg Valley 131

CHAPTER XIII.

Hungarian hospitality Wallack laziness Fishing "Settled gipsies" Anecdote Old régime Fire Old Roman bath The avifauna of Transylvania Fly fishing 140